27 February, 2014


Hello again!
One of the worst things of me not posting during the last two month is all the things I miss to share here. One of them, and it really make me mad with myself, is the exhibitions post of Club to Catwalk, which finished last week. Even though you won't be able to see it anymore I think it's worth to share my thoughts about it, the subject might interest you and you can do some research if you'd like, or perhaps you saw it and want to share your opinion with me (which I would sincerely enjoy!).

The exhibition was a the V&A Museum, I went the with my boyfriend who also enjoyed the exhibitions, almost as much as I did. Unfortunately for all of us pictures were not allowed, so I can only explain what I saw and felt. As soon as we got in, all kind of tunes from 80's hit us. It was playing "sweet dreams" from Marilyn Manson. The exhibition had to floors on the lower one we found window displays with mannequins showing some of the creations of the main designers of the decade: Chrissie Walsh, Willy Brown, Paul Smith, Joe Casely Hayford (who worked with the The Clash, band that I personally admire in many aspects), Georgina Von Etzdorf, Timney Fowler,  Scott Crolla, Helen Storey (whom dresses wore Madonna and Cher), Milliner Stephen Jones, Margaret Howell, Betty Jackson, Jasper Conran, Katherine Hamnet and among them John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood.

Magazines such as i-D, Blitz and The Face featured models drawn from the streets and the club, who redifined the ideals of beauty. Magazines were at the heart of the new concept of styling that was more about an attitude than creating a fashionable look. Customizing was one of the keys of the periode, garments like denim and ma-1 flying jackets bexame popular and people start costumizing them turning and uniform into autentic individual and unique outfit. It was an era of unadulterated creativity. The voluminos shape of the 80 disapeared and was replaced with a new figure of hugging look. The trend was driven by advances in the textile technology which allowedalmost any material to have strechabke fibres woven on it.

What we saw on those windows and the catwalk and performance videos projected on the walls was creativity on top. Everything was allowed, all was meant to explore. And no garment was similar to another. A Galliano's quote that I read there resumes perfectly what this decade and the people where about: "On friday everybody at school (Central Saint Martins) was busy finishing the outfit for the night"
Clubs,  became a place to show yourself: everybody was trying to be different, to be seen, to go further than the others on their way to build their singular personality. The New Romantic style began at the Blitz Club where Steve Strange doors policy assured only the most creatives get entrance. New romantic wardrobe was defined by its individualism the fashions were nostalgic and theatrical.

The hard times look with ripped t-shirts, torn jeans and marlon brando inspired leather jackets: though, masculine and sexy. The antitesy of the new romantic. 

Another style of the period was glam fetish: malcom mclaren and vivienne westwood introduced fetish and bondage wear to the club and the scene.
Goth look emerged from a combination of punk, fetish and the 80s obsesion with dressing up.  sensibility and dramaric style black taffeta, lace and leather were combined with deathly make up dyed black backcombed hair and macabre references to the occult.

For us, some of this designs might look like costumes now a days, but I can guarantee you some others are master pieces, challenging patterns and gorgeous drapeaus, daring colors and prints that created an era defined by self identity.
Have a lovely day,

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